Now that we have everything on the fuse, it is time to get that monster main wing mounted.  This is not an easy task and although is not the fault of the manufacturer, and should not be a blight to the review, it was a pain!!  I had earlier cut the foam in the wings to get the cables to sit nice and tucked away.  if you don't do this, you will not be able to mount the main wing.  Again I would like to stress... What did the manufacturer expect me to do with the cables.  There nowhere for the cables to run.  The only hole is in the top of the fuse for the cables to get into the fuse, but if you don't cut a recess in the foam, the main wing can not possibly seat properly.  This is probably the only real big downer in this build.  I will not harp on about it, but is something they should really look at.

Ok.. the main wing is mounted using 4 screws that screw down into 4 mounts that are glued into a ply plate.  The good thing here is the wing and fuse have a sculptured oval shape that have them interlocking.  Another nice inclusion.  The hardest thing in this exercise is trying to hold the wing and insert the screws.  If you have someone standing around doing nothing, now would be a good time to ask for their help.  Once you have the screws in, they lock down nice and tight and she is secured.  The manufacturer has even included a nice plastic cover that gets glued or taped down over the center join on the wing covering the screws.  I used double sided tape and the affect is a very neat and tidy look.

After securing with wing the only real thing left to do is get all of the electrics together and let her rip.  However, if you don't have previous model building experience, you may fall over here.  You have 4 motor cables that need to attach to 2 ESC Cables.  I had to make up 2 Y cables to enable me to connect the two motors to 1 ESC.  There is no mention of this in the instructions - My kit appeared to be the RTF kit minus the radio, ESC and servos, so this may explain it. 

After sorting out the ESC and Y cables, I mounted my RX - an AR6200 - and used a combination of velcro and cable ties to secure it all.  This is where I ran into a bit of a problem.  The battery box was designed for a stick of NiMh batteries, so getting my LiPo battery in there was going to be a problem.  After scratching my head and sitting down to contemplate, I came up with an idea.  Fill the battery box with something very light that will allow me to secure some velcro to hold the battery.  The lightest thing I could think of was foam, and it just so happened that I had the foam wing spar out of a P51D Mustang.  A light sanding and she fit straight in.  I had to notch out some foam on the fuse to allow the battery to fit, and also in the canopy to allow it to shut, but all in all it worked well.

The last thing needed was to mount the pontoons on the wings and she was done.  The suggested COG is 55mm back from the leading edge and with the battery in place, it balance perfectly.  

It is worth a mention here that brushed motors should be "run in" before you fly.  There are a bunch of ways that you can read about, but the most common is letting the motors run for a few minutes to wear in.  I did this and then did some full power static bench tests, and she pulls about 25A at wide open throttle.  That should be enough to get her in the air, but how well she will perform is another thing.

All that is left is to take her to the field and see if she will do her thing!