Ok... Let's get on with putting this thing together.  The first step in the instructions is to mount the aileron servos in the wing.  I have opted for the E-Sky 8g servos for the wing.  As this plane is not a 3D weapon, I am sure these will do the job nicely.  Upon inspection and dry fitting of the servo, it became apparent that there was no recess in the foam to run the servo wire.  This seems like a strange omission, as the instructions show someone running the servo wires. It should have been at that point that they realised they needed a recess.  That was one of the things that stood out for me on me E-Flight P47.  It sometimes is the small things that make a truly good model.  After a bit of deliberation I decided to cut one in myself.  Otherwise the cabling for both the motor and the servos was going to look ugly.  Not a hard task if you to take your time.  Measure twice, then mark your cuts and away you go, digging the foam out carefully.  I also made a recess for where the servo extension connector would sit.  Later I would tape it all down with some nice white tape that would finish it off nicely.  Now at least all of the cables would be hidden, and the bird will look neat.  The follwoing images will show you the process and finished look of the underside of the wing.

MAKE SURE you use a radio and get the servo control horn centered on the servo BEFORE you mount it in the wing.  The last thing you want to do is rip the servo out after it is nicely secured.  I use a variety of servo mounting techniques depending on the model.  In this build I used some industrial strength 2 way tape.  Not the thick spongy stuff, as this will allow the servo to move around.  The 2 way tape I speak of is very thin and very strong.  However  you could use hot glue, CA or epoxy depending on your choice.

Call me paranoid but I always like to have at look a the places where things may get a little stressed.  In this case it was the section where the two wings come together.  A lot of aircraft have wing spars to support the wing, and this one is no different.  This setup consists of two wooden spars in each wing - with one wing's spars sliding behind the other.  Now it all looked stable enough, but I added a little more epoxy to ensure the wing spar was rock solid.  The few grams in added weight is a small price to pay to save ripping a wing off mid flight.

While the wings dry, it was time to move onto mounting the servos in the fuselage.  The design here is rather good.  There are two alternate slots where to mount your elevator and rudder servos.  One set being slightly large than the other in order to accommodate differing size servos.  I had opted for the E-Sky 8G servos and had earlier discovered that they drop right into the slots as the instructions suggested.  Make sure you run your push rods though the pre-installed tubes first.  You will also need to mount your servos without the control horns attached, as you will not be able to get the push rod on.  The mounts come supplied with holes pre-drilled for your servo, but no screws.  Most good servos come with crews, but unfortunately none are supplied with the E-Sky 8g's, so luckily I have a supply for just this reason.

You will notice in this shot that there is a Blue Arrow servo installed.  Remember earlier in the review I mentioned using a radio to centre the control horn? Well it also gives the servo a test, and during this exercise while mounting the servos in the fuse, I found out that one of the E-Sky servos was faulty.  How bad would that have been if it were glued into the wing, and not checked.  you would have to dig it out, and it would be messy.  Fortunately for me I had a spare Blue Arrow 9g which only required very minor surgery to mount into the same slot as the E-Sky.  With the servos screwed in, it was time to move on to mounting the motors.